Set of six bowl gaskets for Honda Valkyrie GL1500C,CD,CT,CF, plus a 3"x3"x3/16" test plate of clear polycarbonate (Lexan clone). Each gasket is a replacement for Honda's nitrile gasket, part number 16163-KEA-000. The Red Eye version of this gasket is made of a softer formulation of Viton-GF, 65A instead of 75A (Shore Hardness Scale A). This seals better against rough or scuffed surfaces. Viton-GF will continue to seal a very long time in use on the bike.
You'll also need to get an adhesive like "3M 847 Scotch Grip 5 oz. tube", if you want to glue the gasket into the lip of the bowl like Honda did.
Drillspot.com has it "cheapest" for $18.80 delivered: http://www.drillspot.com/products/331760/3m_847_gasket_adhesive.
Clean & Pre-Test:
Whether or not you want to use new glue, you still need to clean out all the old glue. This should be done without gouging the aluminum groove, so don't use a steel scraper. Use something like a wooden stick or a bit of hard plastic to scrape glue. The old glue is contact cement, and it holds on tenaciously. You can check your cleaning work by using the test plate, a new gasket, and a vacuum tool. Put the new gasket into the clean groove of the bowl, and then place the plate on top of that. Open the drain screw 1/4 turn and apply vacuum to the drain screw nipple using your Harbor Freight sucker #92474. If you still have the original o-ring on the drain screw, it may be a source of leakage during this test. To eliminate that possible leak from the testing, use modeling clay (Toys-R-Us) or bubblegum to just cover up the drain screw. Give the sucker a dozen pumps or so to attain 22" mercury vacuum, and watch the gauge for a minute for evidence of leakage. Look through the test plate to judge the width of the contact patch, where the bowl gasket flattens against the plate. If you see a dramatic bulge in width of contact, there a chunk of glue there you missed.
First clean out the old gasket and glue from the lip. Run a continuous bead of 3M 847 around the lip of the bowl. The gasket should be placed into the lip within 15 minutes. In reality, you have about 30 seconds until you start making a mess. You can reposition the gasket with a toothpick, getting it somewhat centered in the lip. After that sets up enough to hold the gasket (15 minutes), then you can assemble the bowl to the body of the carb.
Making a mess: You can make a mess and get away with it. I suggest you buy a household solvent called "Goof Off". It is normally used to remove latex paint splashes, lipstick, glue, gum, price tags, and stuff like that. In our case, you can dip a q-tip in it and clean the old glue out of the bowl groove. You can also use it after you have done the gluing of the gasket, and it isn't perfect. Within the first 15 minutes, you can pull the gasket back out of the groove and start over, using Goof Off to clean everything. It doesn't appear to attack Viton-GF, although it will readily dissolve the 3M847 adhesive. If your gasket glue job is pretty good, but you just have a few globs of adhesive coming up over the gasket, you can again dip a q-tip into the Goof Off and run it around the top of the gasket, readily scrubbing off any adhesive. You can easily feel places where the adhesive goes over the gasket, and you can actually see these places if you place the test plate over the gasket and press. You now need to let the bowl sit for a few minutes before testing it with vacuum. Naturally, you're going to proceed to testing before the adhesive is dry enough, and you'll get adhesive on the test plate. You can use Goof Off to get adhesive off of the test plate, although it will attack that and fog up the surface. The test plate will still work fine, though, if you do your cleaning fast and leave it alone to dry for a half minute. This method of making a mess and cleaning it up can be repeated, until the gasket holds vacuum. It sounds like a nightmare here, but when your gasket looks like Medusa's hairdo you can readily fix it, test it, and forget about it.